By: Dan Richter, Greg & Mirna Roach, Charlie Knapke
Leaving North Lake trail head at the civilized hour of 7:00 a.m. we arrived at Marmot Lake a little after noon and made camp. While Charlie and Mirna relaxed Greg and I went off to scout the route.
I explored the standard route up the scree covered ledge that starts above the prominent scree fan at the west end of the highest of the Humphrey Lakes. Greg took the more direct chute to the right of the ledge that has two large chock stones in it. I found the going easy second class and the ledge soon gave way to a large chute rising to the right all the way to the notch below the summit. I climbed up to a few hundred feet below the notch to verify the route. Greg found that his chute went, but had to get into some climbing to pass the second chock stone.
The next morning we were all off by 5:30 and taking the route I had explored were at the notch by 7:30. Easy class three brought us to the wall below the summit area. We free climbed the first pitch leading to right and up onto the arete. Greg protected the top off the second pitch with some runners on the horns two thirds of the way up it and we were an the summit about 9:00. We placed a new canister and register on top, as all that was left was a zip lock bag.
A short belay at the top pitch and a down climb of the second had us back on the way down to the notch. We were back at camp a little after noon and back at the cars by 5:00.
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